A papal fabric

The name is usually traced to papeline, a cloth linked to Avignon, the city that was home to the popes in the 14th century. Early poplins mixed silk and wool; cotton poplin later became the everyday standard for shirting.

How it's woven

Poplin is a plain weave in which the warp yarns are finer and more tightly packed than the weft, creating tiny ribs you can barely see. That structure gives it its clean, crisp handle.

How it feels

Crisp, smooth and cool, with a subtle sheen.

Where it works

Shirts, blouses, shirt dresses and lightweight trousers.

Caring for it

Wash cold or warm and iron while slightly damp for the sharpest finish.